Ako počnete istraživati o tome kako se ulje u prošlosti koristilo za čišćenje kože, doći ćete sve do tekstova o starim Rimljanima i Grcima. Oni su ulja u obilnijim količinama umasiravali u lice i tijelo, a višak su uklanjali tupim alatima zajedno sa mrtvim stanicama kože. Nas su razmazile i tehnologija i industrija, pa će vam i oni koji najviše vole oil cleansing, reći da ne žele osjećaj ljepljivosti nakon čišćenja. Prva sam takva… Ako na INCI popisu sastojaka nema emulgatora, ulje neću ni kupiti. Formule sa emulgatorima se u kontaktu sa vodom pretvaraju u mlijeko i zato ne ostavljaju masni trag. Jednu takvu vam pišem u nastavku. Recept se sastoji od samo dva sastojka i mrvicu više vašeg strpljenja.
Zašto su ulja za čišćenje tako popularna?
Ulja na jako lagan način uklanjaju višak sebuma i makeup sa lica i zato se najčešće koriste kao prvi čistač u rutini. Kao i sebum, većina sastojaka makeup-a je lipofilna (topi se u ulju). Ako vam na polici gdje držite šminku završi malo maskare ili ruža, ne razmazujte ih dodatno vodom i sapunom, kapnite na mrlju par kapi ulja i vidjeti ćete kako lako nestaje. Tako nekako nestaju i sa lica jer ulje voli ulje i otapa sve što mu je slično. Osim što na lak način uklanjaju i tešku šminku, ulja su postala popularna kao čistači zato što ne narušavaju pH ravnotežu blago kiselog zaštitnog sloja kože na agresivan način.
Emulgatori
Dok su ulja u boci, emulgator i nema neku ulogu. Tek u dodiru sa vodom on radi ono zašto je tu, povezuje ulje i vodu u mlijeko koje ne ostavlja masni trag. Kako je potražnja za ovakvim proizvodima sve veća, na tržištu je i sve veći izbor emulgatora. Jedan od češćih je polyglyceryl-4 oleate. Sjećam se da ga je Tata Harper imala u prvoj verziji svog ulja Nourishing oil cleanser. Danas ga možete pronaći u Pai Light Work ulju, pa i desecima drugih na tržištu. Takva ulja su još privlačnija kada dolaze zakamuflirana u formu balzama ili uljnih gelova. Oleogelovi ili uljni gelovi za čišćenje se rade sa emulgatorima koji ulje prvo pretvaraju u formu gela, a kada dođu u kontakt sa vodom, pretvaraju se u mlijeko.
Pa krenimo …
U recept za ovaj uljni gel sam stavila emulgator koji ima COSMOS certifikat i lako je dostupan za DIY tržište. Možete ga kupiti na francuskoj Aroma Zone web stranici pod nazivom Gelisucre BIO emulsfiant. Izrada gela je stvarno jednostavna, nema zagrijavanja ni posebnih priprema, samo vaganje i odmah možete krenuti sa izradom. Od posuđa su potrebne dvije čiste posudice, mala mutilica i pipeta. Htjela sam da recept bude što jednostavniji, zato su vam potrebna samo dva sastojka, ulje suncokreta i emulgator. Ulje suncokreta je razmjerno jeftino, a ugodne teksture i bogato vitaminom E. Ovaj put sam koristila Florihanino, njihovo nema skoro nikakav miris. Moj vam je savjet da kada pravite nešto ćete koristi prvi put, uvijek napravite manju količinu, oko 30 g, da vidite da li vašoj koži uopće paše.
27,00 G SUNCOKRETOVO ULJE, HLADNOPREŠANO
6,75 G GELISUCRE BIO EMULGATOR
U jednu čašicu odvažite suncokretovo ulje, u drugu emulgator. Počnite dodavati ulje u emulgator i to u jako malim obrocima, najbolje tri kapi po tri kapi (da!), zato je zgodno da imate pipetu. Ako na početku dodate preveliku količinu ulja, uljni gel vam sigurno neće uspjeti, pretvoriti će se u nešto nalik mlijeku. To mi se u žurbi dogodilo već dva puta, zato sam na početku napisala da će vam za ovaj recept trebati malo strpljenja. Između svakog dodavanja ulja u emulgator snažno miješajte smjesu. Primjetiti ćete kako se smjesa polako pretvara u gel koji je sve teže miješati. Postupak ponavljajte dok ne potrošite svu količinu ulja. Gel žličicom prebacite u čistu posudicu sa poklopcem i označite datumom izrade. Ako probate, vjerujem da će vam se gel svidjeti jer iza njega koža ostaje baršunasto meka, bez zatezanja.
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