GALINA ACHKASOVA-PORTIANOI

Sada, kada prirodna kozmetika nikad nije bila traženija, green brendove preuzimaju svjetski kozmetički konglomerati. Što se događa sa nezavisnošću brendova i mogu li zadržati dio vjernih kupaca? O svemu sam popričala sa britanskom beauty novinarkom.

Galina A-P je dugo u svijetu ljepote, kao beauty novinarka, insajderica & suradnica nekih poznatijih brendova prirodne kozmetike. Nezavisna je, realna, iskrena i nije dio hype-a koji se često stvara u tekstovima i recenzijama. O svemu što se događa u industriji piše na svom instagram profilu @galinaap i web stranici The Curiosuty Gap.

Koliko dugo kao beauty novinar pratiš svijet prirodne kozmetike?

Rođena sam i odrasla u Sovjetskom Savezu i koncepti poput banja (toplica), izrade vlastitih voćnih maski za lice sa medom, uzimanja aktivnog ugljena za želučane tegobe ili pravljenja vlastite kombuche bili su vrlo česti – tako da mogu reći da je moje zanimanje za prirodnu ljepotu počelo još u djetinjstvu.

Ali, ako pričamo o industriji ljepote, fokus sam počela mijenjati tijekom studija. Voljela sam istraživati male obrtničke tržnice, koje su bile rani izlog prirodne kozmetike. Moj interes za taj segment porastao je i kada sam postala majka.  Počela sam  sve više preispitivati što sam nanijela na vlastitu kožu i kožu  svoje djece.

Na koji način kao konzultant surađuješ sa brendovima prirodne kozmetike?

Sve donedavno sam paralelno bila beauty novinar i potrošač. Pružala sam jednokratne ili redovite savjete o strategiji, predstavljala sam brendove trgovcima i na svojim društvenim mrežama i web stranici pisala o brendovima koji su vrijedni pažnje potrošača. Postoji dosta sada već poznatih međunarodnih i britanskih brendova s kojima sam surađivala od njihovih ranih dana, doprinoseći tako njihovom rastu i širenju.

Koje su razlike u green beauty svijetu na samim začecima i sada?

Marketing i pohlepa. Zanimljivo, nedavno sam o tome razgovarala s prijateljicom koja ima brend za njegu kože. Prisjetile smo se kako su se stvari promijenile tijekom godina. U svojim ranim danima, green industrija bila je nevjerojatno podržavajuća i uključiva. Osnivači i trgovci su dijelili entuzijazam, ne samo kroz rad, već i kroz podršku koju su pružali jedni drugima. Sada su green brendovi ti koji imaju najveće marketinške proračune, podrške slavnih i influencera. Često su takvi brendovi  puno bolji u marketingu, nego u tome da potrošačima pruže nešto uistinu pionirsko ili drugačije od onoga što već postoji na tržištu ljepote.

„Po mom mišljenju većina konglomerata nisu lideri nego sljedbenici. Oni su imali značajne proračune, vrijeme, laboratorije, svjetsku prepoznatljivost i lojalnost potrošača desetljećima, ali nisu napravili nikakve značajne promjene, sve dok manji brendovi nisu počeli dovoditi u pitanje postojeću paradigmu.”

Zašto ne voliš koristiti riječ clean?

Znam da bi moj odgovor mogao biti kontroverzan, ali po meni je clean izrazu uvijek falila suština. U isto vrijeme smatram da on odvaja ljude. Čisto naspram čega točno – prljavo? Kemikalija, toksina? Naravno, različiti ljudi različito definiraju pojam clean. Tvrdnje kao što su ‘zeleno’, ‘prirodno, ‘biljno’ ili ‘holističko’ su također daleko od idealnog, ali smatram da kad su znanstveno potkrijepljene, pružaju potrošačima beskrajno više od popularističkog konteksta izraza ‘clean beauty’. Vjerujem u jasnu terminologiju koja a) ne zbunjuje potrošača, b) potkrijepljena je znanošću i testiranjem c) ispunjava obećanja brenda.

U zadnje vrijeme, stalno možemo čitati vijesti o preuzimanjima malih brendova od strane velikih konglomerata. Da li se industrija mijenja i da li se veliki igrači prilagođavaju tom dijelu tržišta, na način da kupcima nude održivu, cruelty free kozmetiku ili je riječ o monetiziranju nečega što je popularno?

Po mom mišljenju većina velikih konglomerata nisu lideri nego sljedbenici, ako ih uspoređujemo s inovativnim niche brendovima koje preuzimaju. Oni su imali značajne proračune, vrijeme, laboratorije/postrojenja, svjetsku prepoznatljivost i lojalnost potrošača desetljećima, ali nisu napravili nikakve značajne promjene, sve dok manji brendovi nisu počeli dovoditi u pitanje postojeću paradigmu.

Stoga su veliki konglomerati prisiljeni promijeniti svoju praksu, a kupnja inovativnih manjih brendova im omogućuje stvaranje promjena u percepciji potrošača. Naravno, uvijek postoje iznimke.

Na primjer, zanima me evolucija poslovnog odnosa između obitelji Courtin-Clarins, osnivača Clarinsa i brenda Pai, britanskog pionira  u njezi osjetljive kože, budući da se početna sinergija u ovom trenutku čini drugačijom od suradnji drugih velikih igrača

Za razliku od velike buke na društvenim mrežama koju su 2017. uzrokovala preuzimanja brendova Schmidts i True Botanicals od strane Unilevera, nedavna preuzimanja brendova Pai, KW, RMS, ILIE i Drunk Elephanta, od strane velikih gobalnih igrača su prošla gotovo nezapaženo. Što je po tvom mišljenju uzrok tome?

Mislim da ta preuzimanja nisu ostala nezapažena nego da jednostavno neki od brendova nisu toliko poznati široj skupini potrošača diljem svijeta. Potrošači možda vole neki brend, ali nemaju utjecaja na njegovu kratkoročnu ili dugoročnu poslovnu strategiju. Također, koje god proizvode ovog ili onog brenda potrošači koriste, postaju razmaženi sve većim izborom novih brendova ljepote.

Misliš li da će preuzimanja utjecati na transparentnost brendova, slobodu pri izboru sirovina i generalno njihovu neovisnost pri donošenju odluka?

Mislim da je u većini slučajeva, odgovor na sva ta pitanja ‘da’. Onaj koji posjeduje najveći dio tvrtke, ima kontrolu nad svime. Što je brend veći i popularniji, više pokušava utjecati na narativ usmjeren na potrošače – koji opet nestrpljivo skaču na svako novo lansiranje. Zasad gotovo da nema primjera u kojem je niche brand otkupljen i nastavio napredovanje, a da nije izgubio svoju temeljnu bazu kupaca dok je stjecao nove. Općenito sve više brendova koristi obmanjujuće tvrdnje koje nisu u potpunosti transparentne. Što se tiče slobode izbora sirovina, nažalost zbog rastuće ekonomske nestabilnosti, sve više brendova odlučuje koristiti jeftinije i lakše dostupne sastojke. Paraleno s tim, povećanje cijena gura inovativne brendove na rub opstanka.

Zagriženi ljubitelji prirodne kozmetike vole znati koga financiraju, prate etiku brenda i u krajnjoj liniji ne žele kroz njih financirati kompanije koje testiraju proizvode na životinjama. Misliš li da će se takvi kupci okrenuti manjim niche brendovima koji će sada profitirati?

Mislim da se sve svodi na povjerenje koje potrošači imaju u brend. Ako brend iskreno komunicira, čak i o svojim neuspjesima, onda u njemu postoji ogroman potencijal. Ako ne, čak i jedna pogreška može biti velika dobit konkurenta. Imajte na umu da mlađe generacije potrošača (za razliku od onih zrelijih)  istinski ignoriraju poruke brendova, vrlo su prevrtljive i nisu osobito lojalne. Mlađi ljudi neprestano traže novosti i ponovna osvajanja, pa je pretvaranje njih u vjerne kupce bitka za sebe.

Misliš li da je green beauty u početku bio transparentan, etičan, da je njegova bit bila istraživanje i razvoj, a da sada njihova pokretačka snaga postaje isključivo novac?

Ne želim generalizirati, jer svaki je brend priča za sebe kada je riječ o temeljnim vrijednostima i o tome kako se razvijaju tijekom vremena. Profitabilnost je ključna za uspjeh svakog poslovanja, velikog ili malog. Ali, da bi bilo koje poslovanje bilo uspješno, potrebno je imati ne samo kratkoročne ciljeve, već i dugoročnu održivu strategiju. S druge strane, mnogi ulagači se ne žele dugoročno obvezati na brand, već žele ostvariti kratkoročne dobitke na nečemu što je popularno među potrošačima.

„u kontekstu niche/indie ljepote, mogu vam dati bezbroj primjera malih brendova koji su jednako luksuzni i u isto vrijeme pionirski u konceptu. Iskreno vjerujem da mali, nišni brendovi trenutno prednjače na tržištu ljepote, pomažući da se stvari i prakse mijenjaju na bolje.”

Čitajući tvoje tekstove sam primjetila sam da voliš surađivati s manjim niche brendovima. Koje prednosti, a koje mane vidiš u manjim brendovima u odnosu na velike? Isto tako, misliš li da ako biramo manje brendove,  moramo biti spremni žrtvovati i senzorijalni osjećaj i kvalitetu?

Nastojim surađivati s brendovima s kojima postoji istinski međusobni afinitet i dijalog. Moj cilj nikad nije bio reći vam što morate kupiti, već educirati i podijeliti uvid u filozofiju brenda ili proizvode koji mogu pomoći da bolje izgledate izvana i ljepše se osjećate iznutra. Također sam imala iskustva sa brendovima koji počnu vrlo impresivno, a zatim u procesu izgube svoju autentičnost. U tom slučaju jednostavno odustajem od podrške ili suradnje.

Ako brend ima jednu zakulisnu priču, ali se javno pretvara da je nešto drugo, ne podržavam takvu vrstu ponašanja, jer ide protiv svega onoga u što vjerujem. Veliki plus za mene kao insajdera u beauty svijetu je to što nisam obavezana određenom publikacijom ili suradnjom i onda mogu reći i podržati samo one u koje iskreno vjerujem.

Što se tiče kompromisa oko luksuza u kontekstu niche / indie ljepote, mogu vam dati bezbroj primjera malih brendova koji su jednako luksuzni i u isto vrijeme pionirski u konceptu. Iskreno vjerujem da mali, nišni brendovi trenutno prednjače na tržištu ljepote, pomažući da se stvari i prakse mijenjaju na bolje.

Druga je priča to hoće li osnivač brenda taj zamah zadržati ili  će  kad dosegne određenu fazu unovčiti uspjeh i zasluženo uživati njemu. Vođenje beauty brenda iz dana u dan postaje sve izazovnije i većina potrošača jednostavno ne razumije niti ne vidi naporan pozadinski rad koji se odvija 365 dana u godini.

Možeš li nam preporučiti neke manje niche brendove dekorativne i preparativne kozmetike?

To je kao da me pitate koju ruku ili koju od svoje djece preferiram. Imala sam sreću da sam kroz svoje pisanje upoznala mnoge osnivače brendova i testirala proizvode koji su uistinu izuzetni. Na temelju onoga što mi je privuklo pažnju u posljednjih godinu dana, izdvojila bih australske brendove Ipsum (njihova krema za područje oko očiju je izvanredna) i FIFTY7KIND (TANU & NADI). Obje osnivačice, Janet i Gabrielle, su strašne žene i inspirativne voditeljice beauty industrije, kojima se uistinu divim zbog njihove upornosti i smisla za humor.

Manasi 7 je zaista raznolik i neobičan u svojoj ponudi, kada je u pitanju make-up. Nijanse i teksture omogućuju svakoj osobi da izrazi svoju individualnost. Votary ulja za lice stvarno pomažu u rješavanju mnogih problema na koži – bilo da ste tinejdžerica ili zrela žena. Saint Iris Adriatica bih istaknula u stvaranju primamljivih proizvoda za njegu, koji se lako mogu koristiti i na tijelu. RUA Beauty sa svoja dva proizvoda, koji daju vidljive rezultate u vrlo kratkom vremenskom razdoblju. I akupunkturist Ross Barr, koji je stvorio tri flastera (Sleep, Calm & Healing) koji su pod ‘must’ za wellbeing.

FOTO: GALINA A-P, UNSPLASH
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103 Responses

  1. Galina je jedna od rijetkih osoba na “green beauty” sceni koja je ostala vjerodostojna kroz godine, njene preporuke uvijek promotrim s dodatnom pažnjom jer znam da nisu temeljene ni na hiru ni pomodnosti ni vlastitoj koristi. Zaintrigirala me rečenica da suradnja Clarinsa i Pai za sada čini drugačijom, voljela bih znati u kojem smislu.
    Hvala Sanja na zanimljivom i potrebnom razgovoru!

    1. Meni se sviđa kako je uvijek direktna i nije je strah reći svoje mišljenje/dati kritiku. Po tekstovima se vidi koliko dugo prati scenu i koliko zapravo ima realan pogled na taj svijet. I mene zanima odgovor, proslijedila sam joj pitanje!

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